Paris Travel Planning, Art, Culture & More

13 Awe-Inspiring Churches

by PwS | Jul 7, 2018 | Churches, History, Paris

Paris is chock-a-block with awe-inspiring churches. Many of the grandest are newer replacements built on ancient Christian sites. But “newer” is a relative term. Like many other buildings in Paris, some of these churches are many hundreds of years old with long and interesting histories.

France is overwhelmingly Roman Catholic – whether in name only, or more. The churches listed here began, and most remain, Roman Catholic. Only those that have been deconsecrated are no longer under the Pope of Rome.

The awe-inspiring churches listed here are in no particular order. Of course you know some, but others are definitely worth the effort to visit. Also, the names of the churches are listed in French. English may seem easier for now, but in Paris, only French will be written on signs, maps and plans of the quarter at Métro exits.

If you plan on visiting the awe-inspiring churches that are still maintained as active Roman Catholic institutions, please be respectful of the religion. Some churches have been known to deny entry to those without long pants or covered shoulders.

So, here they are, 13 awe-inspiring churches in Paris:

1. Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris is the most well known of the awe-inspiring churches in Paris. It is amazing to behold and it is an incredibly beautiful feat of engineering. The plaza out in front provides plenty of space to admire this marvelous creation.

Inside is a working Medieval masterpiece. Mass is said regularly. Step inside for a view to the Middle Ages. Smell the incense, hear the homily (over loudspeakers now) and enjoy the soft light coming in through the stained glass.

Make sure to walk around the entire cathedral. The shady side close to the river is a sweet little park. On the opposite side, stand close to the sides and look up to see the gargoyles overhead. Beware the gargoyles during a rain storm. They deliver the water out and away from the church – onto the sidewalk. Also, take a look in the back. Inside the fence surrounding the church, little storage areas protect stone pieces and parts from the cathedral.

Architectural Style:

Notre-Dame de Paris is the perfection of French Gothic architecture. Some may declare cathedrals in other cities to be the best example, but … seemingly everything is perfection. From the arches above the doors, the towers, and the ornate flying buttresses. And that is not even considering the spectacular interior.

Interesting Facts:

During the Revolution, Notre-Dame de Paris was used as a warehouse.
Notre-Dame de Paris celebrated 850 years in 2013. It has witnessed 80 kings, two emperors and five republics.

Getting There:

Address: 6 Parvis Notre-Dame, on the Place Jean-Paul II, 75004
Nearest Métro and RER: Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame
Official website: http://www.notredamedeparis.fr/en/
Admission fee: No, but, there is a charge to enter the treasury, the crypt and to climb the towers.

2. Sacré-Cœur

From a distance, Sacré-Cœur could compete for the best of the awe-inspiring churches. Its gleaming white stone sitting atop the city like a jewel makes it one of the most recognizable places in Paris.

The complete name is Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre (Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Montmartre), but generally the name is shortened to only, “Sacré-Cœur.”

Besides the church itself, one of the strongest draws to visit Sacré-Cœur is the view from the steps overlooking Paris. Beautiful at day or night, morning or evening, blazing hot or rainy. The expansive vistas are adored by many Parisians and visitors.

Architectural Style:

Sacré-Cœur’s architectural style is Romano-Byzantine. It was consecrated in 1919. And, at nearly 100, this is the youngest of the awe-inspiring churches.

Interesting Fact:

The ceiling above the alter is covered by one of the largest mosaics in the world. Beautiful blue and gold tiles create a lovely canopy drawing you all the way into the basilica to see the powerful mosaic.

Getting There:

Address: 35, rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018
Nearest Métro: Anvers or Abbesses, then walk to the funiculaire. If you are looking up to Sacré-Cœur, the funiculaire is to the left at the bottom of the hill. Taking the funiculaire will take one regular Metro ticket.
Official website: http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
Admission fee: No, but there is a charge for visiting the crypt and climbing the dome.

3. Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés

“Prés” is the French word for grassy areas or fields. So the translation of the name from French is, “Church of St. Germain of the Fields.” Of course, it doesn’t look like it now, but when Paris was beginning as a village, this area was only fields.

In the early Middle Ages, the Merovingian King, Childebert I commanded the creation of an abbey (which includes a church) in these fields. And in 558, St. Germain, the bishop of Paris, consecrated the first church on this site.

As time moved on, a large, wealthy and important royal abbey grew on the fields. So large that it encompassed much of the area that is now referred to as the St. Germain neighborhood. And, so important that royalty was buried here until Dagobert I was buried at Basilique Cathédrale de Saint-Denis in 639.

That original church is long gone, but the existing building it is the oldest of the big churches in Paris with parts dating from the 1000s and before.

Architectural Style:

The architectural style of Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés is described on its website as “primitive Gothic.” However, after many years and reconstructions, elements and details of other styles can be found.
Inside, the painted interior from the 1800s may be a little surprising. The walls and columns are covered with interesting designs and beautiful scenes painted in many colors. Up above, the ceiling is dotted with thousands of gold stars on a deep blue background. Around back you can see the flying buttresses. Compared to the ornate flying buttresses on the Gothic churches that would be built in the future, these may seem rather utilitarian.

Interesting Fact:

In 1650, the philosopher, mathematician and scientist René Descartes died. After his body was moved a few times, finally in 1819 his cremated remains were interred in Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés. But, his head is preserved in the Musée de l’Homme.

Getting There:

Address: 3 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 75006
Nearest Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Official website: https://www.eglise-saintgermaindespres.fr
Admission fee: No

4. Chapelle Royale, Château de Versailles

Pretty much everything that Louis XIV commissioned is over-the-top. And, his chapel at Versailles is no exception. From the multi-colored marble floor to the exuberant ceiling paintings, everything is magnificent.

It is the fifth royal chapel at Versailles. And, this last one, is one of the awe-inspiring churches in Paris (or, very close to Paris).

According to its official website, “Every day the Court attended the King’s mass, which were usually held in the morning at 10. The sovereign sat in the royal tribune surrounded by his family. The ladies of the Court occupied the lateral tribunes, while the Officers and members of the public were seated in the nave.”

Architectural Style:

The Chapelle Royale (or Royal Chapel) is considered a masterpiece of the architect, Jules Hardouin-Mansart. He designed it in the French Baroque architectural style and it was completed in 1710, two years after his death.

Interesting Fact:

Intertwined script Ls adorn the chapel. These represent Saint Louis and Louis XIV. Louis XIV commanded the chapel to be built. The chapel is dedicated to Saint Louis.

Getting There:

Address: Château de Versailles
RER: Gare de Versailles Chantiers
Official website: http://en.chateauversailles.fr/discover/estate/palace/royal-chapel#guided-tour
Admission fee: Yes, plus a tour is required to go inside the chapel.
No longer a consecrated church

5. Église Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais

One of the best things about this awe-inspiring church is that you can enjoy it with practically no one else in sight. Even though it is right in the middle of the busy 4th Arrondissement, it does not seem to be visited by many tourists. Take advantage of the solitude to really enjoy its beauty.

Of course, like many other awe-inspiring churches, the grand organ is mesmerizing when played. It is also one of the oldest in Paris. Concerts are not common events, so attending mass may be the best time to experience the organ.

Architectural Style:

Église Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais is the first church with a French Baroque facade. Most of the interior is Late Gothic with fine examples of Gothic stained glass and some from modern times as well.

Interesting Fact:

Don’t miss the choir stalls and the incredible wood carvings from the time of Francois I and Henri II (1500s and 1600s). Although beautifully carved, some of the reliefs can be quite disturbing.
During the Revolution, it was the Temple of Reason and Youth.

Getting There:

Address: 13 rue des Barres, 75004 or Place Saint-Gervais
Nearest Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Pont Marie (the church is behind the Hotel de Ville)
Official website: https://www.paris.catholique.fr/-eglise-saint-gervais-saint-protais-.html
Admission fee: No

6. Basilique Cathédrale de Saint-Denis

Saint-Denis crypt Marie-Antoinette's tomb

Marie-Antoinette’s tomb is in the Bourbon crypt.

Around the year 250, St. Denis was beheaded on Montmartre (the hill of martyrs). St. Denis did not die there. He picked up his head and walked North and eventually collapsed on the spot where the current cathedral is located. The way to find St. Denis in any line up of saints is to look for the one carrying his head, that is St. Denis.

Since St. Denis’ death, some type of shrine or memorial for the dead has been occupying the site. Because of its long history as a burial ground, many archeological excavations have taken place over the years. Around the church, many sarcophagi have been excavated with some dating from as early as the 300s and 400s.

Inside the cathedral, tombs are arranged throughout the main chapel. A map illustrates who is where. Along with containing the remains of the French royalty, the collection of funerary sculpture from the 12th to the 16th centuries is the largest of its kind. Life-like effigies adorn the tombs. On some, symbolic animal sculptures sit at their feet.

Architectural Style:

This church is held out as the first truly Gothic cathedral. In 1144, the apse was consecrated with King Louis VII and Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine leading the procession.

Interesting Fact:

Along with Louis XIV, the remains of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette are in the crypt.

Getting There:

Address: 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 93200 Saint-Denis
Nearest Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis
Official website: http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/en/
Admission fee: Yes

7. Sainte-Chapelle

Louis IX (later Saint Louis) commanded the construction of this chapel to house holy Christian relics, including Christ’s crown of thorns. In 1248, Sainte-Chapelle was consecrated as a Roman Catholic church. Eventually, in 1842, the French government designated it a National Monument.

Sainte-Chapelle is truly one of the most awe-inspiring churches in Paris. The upper chapel is mind blowing. Walls of stained glass soar toward the ceiling. Every inch of surface is painted. It is kind of like being inside a jewel box. This magnificent chapel was reserved for worship exclusively by the king and his family. (The photo at the beginning is of the stained glass in Sainte-Chapelle. Fit for a king, no?)

Staff and others would worship in the lower chapel. It is fascinating to visit and also extremely beautiful. Also, the oldest fresco in France is within the lower chapel.

Looking at the Île de la Cité, there is a spire that seems to stick up out of nowhere. It seems to be kind of near Notre-Dame de Paris, but then if you are walking, it kind of disappears. It reappears while looking into the courtyard of the Palais de Justice – and – looking up. That spire belongs to Sainte-Chapelle. The front of Sainte-Chapelle is hidden behind the walls of the Palais de Justice, fronting the street. If there is no line, you can walk right by and miss it.

Architectural Style:

Sainte-Chapelle is definitely in the Gothic style. More particularly, it is in the Rayonnant Gothic style. Rayonnant comes from the French word for radiating, as in the famous rose windows.

Interesting Fact:

Sainte-Chapelle was built in ONLY 7 YEARS!!! Incredible.

Getting There:

Address: 8, boulevard du Palais, 75001
Nearest Métro and RER: Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame
Official website: http://www.sainte-chapelle.fr/en/
Admission fee: Yes

8. Le Panthéon

Le Panthéon is one of the most awe-inspiring churches that is no longer a church, but a temple to many of the worthies of France.

In 1744, Louis XV was suffering an illness so horrible, that he vowed, should he recover, he would direct a church be built to Ste. Geneviève. After he recovered, he kept his word and the church of Ste. Genevieve was built.

However, once the structure was completed in 1791, the French revolutionaries changed the use of the building to a mausoleum for French dignitaries. A pantheon, or temple to all gods. During its history, it served as a Christian temple again. But, when Victor Hugo died in 1885, Le Panthéon was once and for all converted to a temple honoring French men and women who provided France with great service.

The crypt is a fascinating trip through history. Tombs and crypts fill the lower floor. Look for the names of Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Marie Curie, and Alexandre Dumas.

Architectural Style:

According to its publications, Le Panthéon is a mix of Classical and Gothic styles. Its design by the architect Soufflot was based on St. Paul’s in London and St. Peter’s in Rome and includes a tremendous dome. That dome is easy to see from many parts of Paris.

Interesting Facts:

In 2018, Simone Veil was the most recent addition to Le Panthéon. Veil was a holocaust survivor and politician who broke barriers for women in French politics.
Climb to the top for beautiful views. Also, Foucault’s pendulum is suspended from the ceiling.

Getting There:

Address: Place du Panthéon, 75005
Nearest Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine (both are several blocks away)
RER: Luxembourg
Official website: http://www.paris-pantheon.fr/en
Admission fee: Yes
No longer a consecrated church

9. Église Saint-Séverin

Detail of Saint-Séverin. Look at the fine stonework and extraordinary gargoyles.

Séverin was a hermit living by the Seine in the 5th and 6th centuries. In 504, he cured King Clovis of a disease for which his doctors had no remedy. Along with that good deed for the royalty, he also performed other healing miracles that brought him enough admiration to dedicate a church to him.

Since the 500s, there has been a St. Severin church on that spot. That’s right, 1,500+ years ago. Parts of the building date back to the end of the 11th century, making it one of the oldest churches in Paris. Most of the current structure is from the 1200s – 1400s. Like other awe-inspiring churches, it has an organ. Much of the works are from the 18th century with even earlier pipes.

If you are in near Place Saint-Michel trying to find some street food, walk down Rue Saint-Séverin to find this church. Take a look at the gargoyles on the exterior, the flying buttresses and go in to see the interior. Some of the stained glass windows are from as long ago as the 14th century! Not as tall, or as big, or as grand as Notre-Dame de Paris, but it is still impressive.

Architectural Style:

Late Gothic. It is in middle of a busy neighborhood, so maybe it doesn’t get as much attention as it should?

Interesting Fact:

The oldest bell in Paris rings from its tower.

Getting There:

Address: 3, rue des Prêtres Saint-Séverin, 75005
Nearest Métro: Saint-Michel – Notre-Dame
Official website: https://saint-severin.com
Admission fee: No

10. Église de la Madeleine

Église de la Madeleine ends the straightaway leading from the Place de la Concorde between the massive buildings flanking its north side. It is always startling to merrily trip around the obelisk, look to the side and then see a temple at the end of the street.

Nearly continuously from the 13th century, a Roman Catholic parish has been in charge of the site. And like so many of the sites for other awe-inspiring churches, various buildings have been built and torn down through the centuries. The current structure, however, is definitely unique among them.

Église de la Madeleine has an amazing organ and concerts are held regularly. Check the website when planning your trip for upcoming concert dates.

Down around back are stalls filled with beautiful flowers. And, across the street in the back you can find Fauchon – an incredible purveyor of delicacies. Then across from Église de la Madeleine in other directions, you will find Ralph Lauren, Bulgari, and other posh shops.

Architectural Style:

It looks like a Roman or Greek temple, and in fact, its architectural style is not surprisingly, Neo-Classical. The symmetrical columns, huge pediment and expansive stairs may make you feel as though you are in an ancient land.

Interesting Fact:

The current building is the result of Napoleon I’s desire for a Temple to the Glory of the Great Army. So, it really was built as a temple. But, as history would have it, Napoleon I was exiled before it could be used as a secular temple. The monarchy was restored (the Restoration), and that is when King Louis XVIII declared the building would be a Roman Catholic church. And, since its consecration in 1842, a Roman Catholic church it remains.

Getting There:

Address: Place de la Madeleine, 75008
Nearest Métro: Madeleine
Official website: http://www.eglise-lamadeleine.com
Admission fee: No

11. Église Saint-Eustache

Église Saint-Eustache began as a small chapel in 1213. The first stone of the current awe-inspiring church was laid on August 19, 1532. And, on April 26, 1637, the church was consecrated. (Those Roman Catholic churches keep some meticulous records.)

The open expanse of the former Les Halles markets provides plenty of room to back way up and really see the church. The interior of the church seems vast, maybe because the ceiling is over 100′ high.

Saint-Eustache’s organ has 8,000 pipes. The church regularly holds organ concerts on Sundays at 5:30pm (except for special days). When planning your trip, check the website to confirm concert times.

Architectural Style:

The current awe-inspiring church is generally in the late Gothic style with Renaissance features.

Interesting Facts:

Here in 1649, Louis XIV received his first communion.
Hector Berlioz’s “Te Deum” premiered here on April 30, 1855.
La Fontaine, the famous fable writer, is interred in Saint-Eustache.
During the Revolution, it was designated the Temple of Agriculture and used as a barn.

Super Cool Extra:

Église Saint-Eustache created a video of the church filmed by a drone – really interesting to watch. See the columns, organ – everything – up close here.

Getting There:

Address: 2 impasse Saint-Eustache, 75001
Nearest Métro: Les Halles
RER: Chatelet – Les Halles
Official website: http://saint-eustache.org/
Admission fee: No

12. Église Saint-Sulpice

Église Saint-Sulpice is one of the awe-inspiring churches of Paris. One, because it is one of the biggest in Paris. Two, because it looks different from the others. Three, because the South tower remains incomplete due to a stop in construction during the French Revolution – and it never resumed. Four, because the grand organ, well, is pretty grand. And, five, because the square out in front is so relaxing and such a good place to admire the church and listen to the water cascading in the huge fountain in the middle.

Like nearly all of the other awe-inspiring churches, this site has a long history with the Roman Catholic faith. The current church, which was begun in 1646, is built on earlier foundations. It is also home to three murals by Eugène Delacroix. Look for them on the right, in the first side chapel.

Check for organ concerts on the website. Each Sunday the church gives mass at 11:00am and 6:45pm. For 10-15 minutes before the each of those masses, the great organ is played. (There is a choir organ as well.) Also, the great organ is played during mass and for 30 minutes after the 11:00am mass.

Across the square, just off the right corner if you are looking out of the front door of the church, is a great place for a macaroon. Stop in at the famous patisserie, Pierre Hermé, at 72 rue Bonaparte, 75006.

Architectural Style:

Kind of a combination of Neo-Classical and Baroque with an Italianate facade.

Interesting Facts:

Parts of the Da Vinci Code were filmed here.
The Marquis de Sade was baptized here in 1740.
Victor Hugo was married here in 1822.

Getting There:

Address: 2 rue Palatine, 75006, on Place Saint-Sulpice
Nearest Métro: Saint-Sulpice
Official website: http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
Admission fee: No

13. Église du Dôme (or Église Royale) at Les Invalides – the Boulanger’s Dozen of the Awe-Inspiring Churches in Paris

Louis XIV commissioned Jules Hardouin Mansart to design and build this royal chapel that qualifies as one of the awe-inspiring churches of Paris. The Église du Dôme was built between 1677 and 1706 and it is a stunner inside and out.

Yet, the monarchy did not survive. During the Revolution, this grand building became the Temple of Mars. Later, while Napoleon I reigned as Emperor, the building was a pantheon to military greats and many military officers are interred here.

Napoleon I was exiled and died on St. Helena. But he would again leave a permanent impression on the Temple of Mars. King Louis-Philippe decided that Napoleon I’s body should be given a place of honor beneath the great dome. After many years of extensive work, the magnificent space was ready to hold its intended imperial remains. When everything was ready, Napoleon I was given a state funeral and placed in his eternal tomb under a golden dome.

Along with Napoleon I, his son, Napoleon II (also known as l’Aiglon), the King of Rome, is interred here – without his heart or intestines. And, Napoleon’s brothers, Joseph Bonaparte and Jérôme Bonaparte can be found as well.

Beyond the royal chapel, you can see the Cathédral of Saint-Louis des Invalides, which is also known as the Veteran’s chapel. Through a glass partition between the two churches, look for flags (or trophies) taken from the vanquished that now hang from the gleaming white stone walls.

Architectural Style:

French Baroque

Interesting Fact:

The amount of gold on the dome is enough to make this qualify as one of the awe-inspiring churches of Paris. In 1989 it took more than 26 pounds of gold for leafing that glistening dome.

Getting There:

Address: In the Invalides complex. The facade faces avenue de Tourville, 75007
Nearest Métro: La Tour-Maubourg or Varenne (the Invalides RER and Métro stop will put you near the river and it is a long walk to get to the church.)
Official website: http://www.musee-armee.fr/en/collections/museum-spaces/dome-des-invalides-tomb-of-napoleon-i.html
Admission fee: Yes
No longer a consecrated church

Useful Terms – Spoken Like a Native

by PwS | Jul 1, 2018 | Food, Paris

Useful terms are something everyone visiting a foreign country needs. If for nothing else, to find the bathroom. But, knowing a few other words for food and drinks will at least take care of basic needs. I just finished a page on useful terms and want to share the story of how it came about.

New Site

If you don’t know it by now, this is a new website/blog/creation. After finally going live a few weeks ago, pages still need to be finalized – all while writing new blog entries and triple checking what is up and how it looks. Lots and lots of writing, revising, tweaking appearance of the pages, increasing page load speeds, making sure keywords are used, etc… So many words are used that I have never heard of describing things I never thought of.

Food and Drink is a “main menu item.” That means it has several “pages” under it. (I am probably getting all of this wrong.) And, while working on the pages under the Food and Drink main menu, it seemed like providing some useful terms would be a good idea. After all, this site, pariswithscott.com, is to try to help first time visitors or people who want to visit Paris on their own be able to do it.

Basic Useful Terms for Food

So, I made a list of super basic terms. Not many, real basic food terms. Just so looking at a menu posted outside of a restaurant may not be completely out of the question. While doing that, I started to sound out the French words and write in my own pronunciation guide!! As if I know how to tell someone how to say something in French!!!

Words like temperatures for cooking a steak for “steak frites.” Medium-rare is “à point” (ah-pwahw), medium is “cuit” (kwee), well done is “bien cuit” (bee-iahn-kwee). (I don’t think the French really know how to cook something “bien cuit.”) And on and on for me sounding out the pronunciation.

Wouldn’t It Be Great…

While writing down those pronunciations I emailed Susan, the talented woman who is working with me on the site. “Wouldn’t it be great if we could add in some way for visitors to the site to hear the word pronounced by a native French speaker?”

Well, she did it. Susan made the page absolutely incredible!!! Take a look and a listen here:

https://pariswithscott.com/food-and-drink-in-paris/french-pronunciation-guide-with-audio/

The internet is incredible. Useful terms are great, but hearing them, while seeing the word, is really great. Okay, that is it. This entry is a thank you to Susan!

Subscribe If You Want

If you want to sign up for the newsletter, feel free. I’m trying to write entries and every now and then they will be emailed out to you if you subscribe. And, always happy to hear suggestions on making it better. Just went live not too long ago and still getting things worked out. This is kind of a preview for you.

Thanks for taking a look.

Parlez-vous français?

A Step Inside Giacometti’s Studio

by PwS | Jun 22, 2018 | Art, History, Paris

More than 50 years after his death, Alberto Giacometti’s studio in Paris has been reassembled and is open for you to visit. You will find it about a mile from his original studio, in the same Montparnasse neighborhood.

Forethought to Preserve an Artist’s Legacy

When he died in 1966, Giacometti’s studio of 40 years was disassembled by his wife, Annette. She removed all of the artist’s works in progress, furnishings and even the walls to preserve them. Annette had the forethought, and somehow knew, that Giacometti’s studio should be saved for the future.

Eventually, Giacometti’s studio and artwork, notebooks, sketchbooks and all kinds of things Giacometti, was left by Annette in 1993 to the Fondation Alberto et Annette Giacometti. The Foundation runs the Giacometti Institute and that organization, “is the reference place for Giacometti’s work and an art history center including exhibitions, research and pedagogy.”

Reconstruction of Giacometti’s Studio

In furtherance of its mission, Giacometti’s studio was reconstructed. Using old photographs of Giacometti’s studio by Robert Doisneau, Gordon Parks, Sabine Weiss and Ernst Scheidegger the Giacometti Institute rebuilt the studio just as it had been. At only 15′ x 16′, you wouldn’t think it could hold much. But, like his skeletal sculptures, Giacometti’s studio is powerful and full of the artist’s presence.

The website explains that now the Giacometti Institute has on permanent display, “Giacometti’s reconstructed studio including his furniture, personal objects, walls painted by the artist and exclusive works, some of which have never before been exhibited.”

Giacometti’s Studio Housed in Art-Deco

The Giacometti Foundation decided to place the institute in a 1914 Art-Deco building with a famous history of its own. Paul Follot, the renowned Art-Deco artist and interior designer had his showroom in the building. (Super-cool!)

Of course, the 3,700 square foot space needed lots of work to make it a suitable place for the Institute. Pascal Grasso, the architect working on the restoration and renovation, had three objectives, “respect the historic monument and give Giacometti’s work pride of place, while devising a contemporary space endowed with its own identity.”

The foundation’s collection is the largest holding of artwork by Alberto Giacometti. It includes hundreds of sculptures, nearly 100 paintings and thousands of drawings, etchings and engravings. Some of these can be seen on a visit to the institute.

Breaking Many Banks

Alberto Giacometti’s sculptures are some of the most recognizable in the world – and the most expensive. “Chariot,” a breathtaking 1950 bronze by Alberto Giacometti, sold for nearly US$101 Million in 2014. And, in 2015, the spaghetti-string armed, “Pointing Man,” sold for over US$141 Million. That set a world record for a sculpture at auction.

“Chariot” by Alberto Giacometti

Want to see a current major exhibition of Alberto Giacometti’s work in the United States? Visit the Guggenheim in New York through September 12, 2018.

Quotes are from the Fondation Giacometti website.

Giacometti’s Studio
Address: Inside the Institute Giacometti, 5, Rue Victor Schoelcher, 75014 Paris
Nearest Métro: Raspail or Denfert-Rochereau
RER: Line B, Stop: Denfert-Rochereau
Official website: http://www.fondation-giacometti.fr/en
Hours: Open by online reservation system only. Tuesday from 2:00pm – 6:00pm and Wednesday – Sunday 10:00am – 6:00pm.
Closed: Monday all day and Tuesday mornings.
Admission charge: Yes

UNESCO World Heritage Sites In/Near Paris

by PwS | May 28, 2018 | History, Paris

France is lucky to have many World Heritage Sites, but there are several UNESCO World Heritage Sites in/near Paris. You can easily visit some of them on a trip to Paris. Even if you do not know it, you are already familiar with one spectacular World Heritage Sites – the banks of the Seine. Did you know that? For many people, the designation alone is enough reason to make a trip to see the site or to plan a vacation around it. But, what does it mean to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

What is UNESCO?

UNESCO is an agency within the United Nations. According to its website: “The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) seeks to encourage the identification, protection, and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity. This is embodied in an international treaty called the Convention concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, adopted by UNESCO in 1972.”

How Does UNESCO Do All of That?

Nearly 200 countries have agreed to be bound by that Convention and the policies adopted by the organization. These policies affect many different aspects of culture, but a well-known way that is easy to tangibly see are landmarks or areas that are designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

What is a World Heritage Site?

Obtaining the designation is often a years-long process based on a variety of criteria that demonstrate the area or landmark’s significance, uniqueness, and contribution to culture. And, in emergency situations, UNESCO takes into account the potential for loss. Suffice it to say, that the places on the World Heritage Site list are generally awe-inspiring.

Why Do Countries Want Sites on the List?

Along with the prestige of having the designation, financial assistance may be awarded to preserve, conserve and plan for the future. Also, oversight and expert help come from UNESCO. Plus, the designation will bring hordes of tourists (money from another source).

UNESCO, like many other organizations, has had its share of controversies. Although it may be difficult to find agreement on how cultural conservation should be accomplished, no one can argue with attempts to save cultural sites, heighten awareness of them and provide planning assistance for the enjoyment of those sites by future generations. Plus, they are fun to visit!

(By the way, UNESCO headquarters is in Paris on the Place de Fontenoy in the 7th Arrondissement, behind the École Militaire.)

Following are UNESCO World Heritage Sites In/Near Paris.

Links are for the UNESCO entry that describes its cultural importance and the website of the landmark.

Paris, Banks of the Seine

That’s right! You already know this one! And, UNESCO recognizes the entire landscape. Medieval buildings, grand plazas, gardens, monuments, bridges – the whole thing. Most of the designated area can be seen from a river cruise.
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/600

The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier, an Outstanding Contribution to the Modern Movement.

Le Corbusier, born Charles- Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, was a Swiss-born architect working from the 1920s to 1960s. He was responsible for 17 international sites that are together the one World Heritage Site. Two of his works are very near Paris.
UNESCO website. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1321

Villa Savoye

A National Monument located only on the outskirts of Paris.
Website: http://www.villa-savoye.fr/en/

Porte Molitor Apartment Building

Walk by this modernist apartment building from the 1930s on Rue Nungesser et Coli and faces Stade Jean Bouin. Private residences.

Provins, Town of Medieval Fairs

Counts of Champagne ruled from this town. Provins was home to annual trade fairs where goods were bartered and sold from as far away as northern Europe and the Mediterranean. Still, see the fortified walls and ramparts that surround the old town. Only about 60 miles from Paris and a train can take you there. Then, it is a mile walk to the old town.
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/873

Champagne Hillsides, Houses and Cellars

Besides beauty, creativity and great taste, I don’t know what to write. The World Heritage website describes this entry as the following: “The property is made up of three distinct ensembles: the historic vineyards of Hautvillers, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Saint-Nicaise Hill in Reims, and the Avenue de Champagne and Fort Chabrol in Epernay. These three components – the supply basin formed by the historic hillsides, the production sites (with their underground cellars) and the sales and distribution centres (the Champagne Houses) – illustrate the entire champagne production process. The property bears clear testimony to the development of a very specialized artisan activity that has become an agro-industrial enterprise.” Essentially, I think, the towns and work grew up around the vines.
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1465

Cathedral of Notre-Dame, Former Abbey of Saint-Rémi and Palace of Tau, Reims

While visiting the Champagne countryside, take a look at this marvel and its compound. Not far from the train station, or from Roman ruins, take a look at the Reims Cathedral and other parts of the World Heritage Site. World War I caused great damage to the cathedral towers, but they have been completely restored.
The Towers of Reims Cathedral are a French National Monument. Website: http://www.cathedrale-reims.fr/en
Ministry of Cultural Affairs website: http://www.reims-cathedral.culture.fr/
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/601

Chartres Cathedral

By Ireneed, CC BY-SA 3.0, from Wikimedia Commons

France named Chartres Cathedral a Historic Monument in 1862! It is a medieval and Gothic masterpiece with peerless stained-glass windows. From miles away, this French National Monument is visible by train.
Website: http://www.chartres-cathedrale.fr/en/
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/81

Amiens Cathedral

Another medieval and Gothic masterpiece and really big. The vaulted ceiling is the tallest of any complete cathedral – nearly 140 feet. And, guess what the relic is? St. John the Baptist’s head! About a half mile from the train station.
Towers and Treasury are a French National Monument. Website: http://www.cathedrale-amiens.fr/
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/162

Palace and Park of Fontainebleau

The Château grew from a royal hunting lodge into the 16th-century palace of François I. Expansions kept it growing, and the gardens along with it. Creaking wood floors, opulent fabrics, furniture and tapestries, chapels, apartments, and the grandest exterior staircases. About an hour outside of Paris by car, but no train. Many tour companies offer day trips.
Website: http://www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr/spip.php?page=sommaire&lang=en
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/160

Palace and Park of Versailles

‘Nuff said.
Official website: http://en.chateauversailles.fr/
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/83

The Loire Valley between Sully-sur-Loire and Chalonnes

Beautiful river, glorious drive, breathtaking castles. Some of the Châteaux included in the designated area are Chambord, Blois, Chenonceau, Amboise, and Azay-le-Rideau.
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/933

Another site, very close to Paris is on UNESCO’s “Tentative List.”

One day it may receive the prestigious designation.

Basilique Cathédral de Saint-Denis

This Gothic masterpiece is the final resting place of many kings and queens of France. The interior and crypt are filled with funerary art. Marie Antoinette is interred here. A French National Monument.
Website: http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/en/
UNESCO website: http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/230/

And, just for fun, here is a poster inside Notre-Dame showing the evolution of the Gothic cathedral in France.

Read more on efforts to preserve French culture in the post “Inrap and Tromelin, the Island of Forgotten Slaves“.

Métro Instructions

by PwS | May 2, 2018 | Paris, Travel, Trip Planning

Remember the number one rule in Métro Instructions. If you are confused or think you are lost, get out at the next stop, move to the side out of the way of the passing people and get your bearings. You may be going the right direction, but it is okay to confirm and get back on. It will only be a few minutes until the next Métro comes along and it will not cost any more money.

If you have gone the wrong direction, cross over to the other side and get back on. Then, you will be going the right direction. The Métro in Paris is one of the simplest in the world. The line you are riding goes and comes only one way – back and forth. You determine the direction by looking at the names of the stops at the ends of the line. Board the Métro going in the direction that stops at the station you need.

General Métro Instructions:

Find the Métro stop that is nearest to the place you want to visit.
Find that stop on the Métro map and determine the color of the line that stop is on.
Follow that color towards the left and learn the name of the station at the end of the line.
Then, follow the color back to the right and learn the name at the end of the line in that direction.
Put those two names together and you have the name of your Métro line.
If you want, verify the color of the line and the line number. I think that is two more things to try to remember. Meaning two more things I could easily forget. So, I focus only on the beginning and ending stations.
Find yourself on your map and see if you are close to a stop on that line. If so, great.
If not, find a stop that is near where you are and then go to that entrance.
Buy a ticket. Look for the signs listing the stops, and the ending point for the direction you are going.
Go to the platform and catch the train.
Get out at your stop and exit the station. A map of the area (plan du quartier) is near the exit and you can get your bearings.

Simple Métro Example

(No transfer needed to get to my destination.)

I want to get a crêpe with Nutella next to the entrance to the Tuilleries at the Place de la Concorde (Could something be better?)
I pull out my Métro map and find “Concorde.” (There are several exits at Place de la Concorde. But no matter which one I actually exit, I will find myself climbing up the steps very close to where they guillotined many poor souls.)
I look toward my right hand and see the end stop is “Château de Vincennes.” (And I note the line is yellow and it is Line 1.)
I look toward my left hand and see the end stop is “La Défense.”
Therefore, the name of the Métro line I am looking for is “La Défense/Château de Vincennes.”
I am at the Arc de Triomphe. So, I look on the map and find that the closest Métro stop to me is “Charles de Gaulle Étoile”
“Charles de Gaulle Étoile” is in yellow and I see that it is also a stop on the “La Défense/Château de Vincennes” line. So, it is a direct route.
I find the Métro entrance on the sidewalk side of the Arc de Triomphe. I enter the Métro station, buy a ticket at the machine or from the ticket seller and go through the turnstile.
I look for the signs close to the ceiling or on the wall for “La Défense/Château de Vincennes. I find a sign that points it out to me.
Then I look on the sign for the direction of “Château de Vincennes”.
I take the steps at the sign “Château de Vincennes” and then find myself at a platform.
The train comes and I get on.
The train begins moving, I look up toward the ceiling of the Métro and find the same route map that was on my pocket map. I see “Charles de Gaulle Étoile” and then I see the next stop is supposed to be “George V.”
The Métro starts to slow down and the wall tiles state “Argentine.”
Uh-OH!!!!! That isn’t going the right direction!!!!!!!! What do I do???????
Get off the train.
Find a sign that states “La Défense/Château de Vincennes.” Then, find the sign that states “Château de Vincennes.” (Many times this is up the steps over the tracks and down again so you get the train going the opposite direction.)
Go down to the platform for the train going towards “Château de Vincennes.”
The train comes and I get on.
The train begins moving, I look up toward the ceiling of the Métro and find the same route map that was on my pocket map. I see the next stop should be “Charles de Gaulle Étoile” (back where I started – all of 5 minutes later).
The Métro starts to slow down and the wall tiles state “Charles de Gaulle Étoile” – I am going in the right direction – yippee!
We pass a few more stops and then, “Concorde” – right on the money!!
I exit (same feeling as when I was coming into Paris – for me this is each time I exit a Métro station).
I find myself by the Crillon Hotel. Not perfect, but the city is, so who cares?
I walk towards the Tuilleries. The gardens have huge gates and a crêpe stand by the entrance.
Could it have been any better???? Maybe if I didn’t take the first train going the wrong direction, but so what? I am here. I order my crêpe. I sit and look one way toward the Arc de Triomphe and the other way toward the Louvre. Incredible!

Difficult Métro Example

(A joke – no Métro instructions are difficult! This includes a transfer.)

Still looking for my crêpe with Nutella next to the entrance to the Tuilleries at the Place de la Concorde.
I find “Concorde” on the Métro map. (At many Métro stops there are multiple exits, but all relatively close. At this stop, there are several exits, but no matter which one I actually exit, I will find myself climbing up the steps very near where they guillotined many poor souls.)
I look to the right and see the end stop is “Château de Vincennes.” (And, I note the line is yellow and it is Line 1.)
I look to the left and see the end stop is “La Défense.”
Therefore, the name of the Métro line I am looking for is “La Défense/Château de Vincennes.”
I am at Place Victor Hugo, so I look on the map and find that the closest Métro stop to me is “Victor Hugo.”
“Victor Hugo” is on the blue line and Line 2.
So I follow the blue line – keep looking, it is all the way to the right – and see the end is “Nation.”
I look to the left and see the end is “Porte Dauphine.”
The Métro I am looking for is yellow but I see that they share a common stop, “Charles de Gaulle Étoile.” So, that will be my stop to change trains.
I see that if I get on the “Porte Dauphine/Nation” line going in the direction of “Nation” I can go one stop, change trains and then be on my way to Place de la Concorde.
I find the Métro entrance on the sidewalk of Place Victor Hugo and enter the Métro station, buy a ticket at the machine or from the ticket seller and go through the turnstile.
I look for the sign for “Nation” (this is a relatively small station and it only has two directions, “Nation” and “Porte Dauphine”.
I find the sign for “Nation.”
I take the steps down and then find myself at a platform.
The train comes and I get on.
The train begins moving, I look up toward the ceiling of the Métro and find the same route map that was on my pocket map. I see the next stop is supposed to be “Charles de Gaulle Étoile.”
The Métro starts to slow down and the wall tiles state “Charles de Gaulle Étoile.” This is my stop.
I get out and then look for signs with, “La Défense/Château de Vincennes.” This is a larger station, so there will be multiple signs for other lines. Find the sign for “Château de Vincennes.”
Go down to the platform for the train going towards “Château de Vincennes.”
The train comes and I get on.
The train begins moving, I look up toward the ceiling of the Métro and find the same route map that was on my pocket map – it is in yellow. I see the next stop should be “George V”.
The Métro starts to slow down and the wall tiles state “George V” – it is the right direction – yippee!
We pass a few more stops and then, “Concorde” – right on the money!!
Get off the train and exit the station (same feeling as when I was coming into Paris – this is really each time you exit a Métro station).
I find myself by the Crillon Hotel. Not perfect, but the city is perfect so who cares.
I walk towards the Tuilleries – the gardens have huge gates and a crêpe stand by the entrance.
Could it have been any better???? I am here. I order my crêpe. I sit and look one way toward the Arc de Triomphe and the other way toward the Louvre. Incredible.

For everything you want to know, and in English, take a look at https://www.ratp.fr/en to find maps, timetables, user guides and an easy to use trip planner.

Still want more? Visit the absolutely amazing site, ParisByTrain.

And, Métro workers can go on strike, so it is good to know other ways of getting around Paris.

Musée Jacquemart-André Announces Mary Cassatt Exhibition

by PwS | Mar 9, 2018 | History, Museums, Paris

The Musée Jacquemart-André announces that it is hosting an exhibition of work by Mary Cassatt in its extraordinary and sumptuous chateau in the middle of Paris. Read the official press release here.

Although this exhibition had been planned for some time, it is highly appropriate in light of the women’s activities that are in the news today. During here lifetime, Mary Cassatt (b. 1844 – d. 1926) was what would now be called a feminist. She advocated equal rights for women from her days in college in the 1860s to campaigning for women’s right to vote in the 1910s.

Cassatt was born in Pennsylvania to well-educated parents, and eventually took art classes at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts. In 1868, she quite the art academy because of its slow pace and moved to Paris. Cassatt wanted to be a professional artist, not just a painter to pass the time. In Paris she learned from great artists and teachers, had access to the incredible museums and found inspiration from other painters.

Mary Cassatt Found Like-Minded Friends in Paris

Mary not only succeeded while in Paris, but excelled at painting. She grew from producing academic work into an impressionist master. Mary was friends with many well-known impressionist painters including Edgar Degas. She and Degas became close friends and colleagues, each learning from the other. Along with Degas, Cassatt entered her paintings in the famous salons of Paris and in the Impressionists Exhibitions. Galleries in Paris showed her work with galleries in New York following soon after.

Cassatt’s paintings often feature mothers with their children, sometimes caring for the children in tender moments. As well as painting, she was a master at drawing and print making, she advised art collectors and was awarded the French Legion of Honor in 1904.

The current exhibition includes loans from major museums in the United States and Europe. Masterpieces from institutions like the National Gallery of Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Musée d’Orsay, the Petit Palais, the Bilbao Museum of Fine Arts and more are on display in the magnificent museum. Check out the museum’s site to see how over-the-top the place is. Then, take a look at the exhibit. See if it strikes your fancy and post a comment!

Mary Cassatt, An American Impressionist in Paris

Where: Le Musée Jacquemart-André
Address: 158, boulevard Haussmann
Arrondissement: 8th
Nearest Métro: Saint-Augustin, Miromesnil or Saint-Philippe du Roule
When: March 9 – July 23, 2018. Late openings on Mondays during the exhibition.
Admission: Entrance fee
Official website: http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com

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