Paris with Scott

Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel)

by PwS | Feb 22, 2018 | History, Paris

What image is conjured in your mind when you hear, Paris? The Eiffel Tower, of course! It must be the symbol that is most closely associated with a city, and it has to be the most recognizable structure on the planet. Even in photographs and drawings, it is stunning, but in person, it is heart stopping. It is doubtful that anyone could tire of seeing the Eiffel Tower, even if it were straight outside your living room window and you had to look at it every day!

Its history began in the 1800s when Paris decided to host a world’s fair named, Exposition Universelle de 1889. The year 1889 was chosen because it marked the 100th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille and the beginning of the French Revolution. A world’s fair at the time was primarily for countries to show off their industrial achievements and their culture. But, with so many visitors, they had to have food, souvenirs and even entertainment – like Buffalo Bill and Annie Oakley performing his “Wild West Show,” yes, right there on the Champ de Mars.

When the exposition was in its planning stage, according to the official website, a competition was held to “study the possibility of erecting an iron tower on the Champ-de-Mars with a square base, 125 metres across and 300 metres tall”. Out of 107 entries, the chosen submission came from “Gustave Eiffel, an entrepreneur, Maurice Koechlin and Emile Nouguier, both engineers, and Stephen Sauvestre, an architect.”

Controversy is Its Name

Like any project, it was controversial at the time. But, the Gustave Eiffel pushed ahead and it was completed on March 31, 1889. It was the tallest structure made by man in the world. Visitors must have been in a state of awe as they entered the Exposition Universelle de 1889 through the wrought iron arches of the Eiffel Tower. Soon, the controversy died down and its popularity was unsurpassed. The Eiffel Tower boasted nearly 2 million visitors in 1889, alone. Now, the Eiffel Tower has nearly 7,000,000 visitors each year, and claims that nearly 300 million people have visited it since its opening.

Many of these visitors have the opportunity to view it as they ascend and descend, but also from afar while in other parts of Paris. From many places, you can catch a glimpse of it jutting into the sky. At anytime, day or night, the Eiffel Tower is extraordinary. During the day, clouds seem to float just above the top. And in the darkness, it has an otherworldly glow from the soft illumination along the iron work. At the top of every hour after sunset, twinkling lights dance along the structure making the entire Eiffel Tower sparkle with diamonds in the night sky.

Visiting The Eiffel Tower

If you go for a visit, the first level above the ground has a transparent floor. You may gasp when you take your first steps out into the open. Before you look down, grab the arm of whoever is near to you for a little steady support. After you enjoy seeming to walk on air, find the elevator for the second level, and move on up.

On the second level, walk the perimeter for more extraordinary views. That doesn’t sound like much, but there are only so many ways to describe how great the views are. The farther up you go, the farther away you can see. As you make your way to the top, notice how the perspective changes – it is fascinating. Enjoy your time, have a snack or something to drink if you like, or, reserve a spot for lunch find a souvenir, then find the elevators to ascend to the top level.

Squeeze in and catch your breath as the elevator moves higher and higher through the wrought iron. As the door opens, look out from the top of the Eiffel Tower! Safely make your way around in the caged walkway to see the world at your feet. Chilly winds can blow at this height, so come prepared. Back inside you can see Gustave Eiffel’s office and the gramophone that was given to him by Thomas Edison. After your trek to the top are you hankering for a glass of bubbly? Then toast your visit at the Champagne Bar.

After you have enjoyed your time at the summit, find the down elevators and begin your descent back to earth.

Buy Your Tickets in Advance!

If you are sure you want to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, buying your ticket in advance may set your schedule for the entire trip. Plan ahead – way ahead, like a month or more before you go – to buy your ticket. Unless you are unbelievably fortunate, if you do not have an advance ticket, you will spend one entire day trying to go up the Eiffel Tower. If you do not have an advance ticket, and you want to spend your day in line, make sure you get in the right line! My friends, Jennifer and Jamie, and I got in line to go up, and when we bought our tickets – IT WAS FOR THE STAIRS to the first level!!!!! No way were we getting in line again, so we hoofed it to the first level!

My parents were some of the unbelievably fortunate. We took an afternoon river trip on a glass-topped boat leaving from the quai by the Eiffel Tower. On the excursion, the heavens opened up. Rain poured for nearly the whole journey back from the Seine turn around. But, when we got off the boat and walked to street level, no one was in line to buy tickets to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I had no idea my mother would want to go to the top, but she did. I had never been up before, so we bought tickets, made our way to the top and had crystal clear visibility from the downpour and hardly any other visitors. Do not expect this bit of luck – buy your tickets in advance!

Spend the Afternoon and Enjoy Lunch

The official site states, “In 1889, four majestic wooden pavilions designed by Stephen Sauvestre occupied the first floor platform. Each restaurant could seat up to 500 guests.” Maybe not such expansive establishments now, but dining options are available on the street level, first level and second level. Make a reservation at one of the restaurants to enjoy a meal at a table and chairs. Or, send one of your party to the take out kiosk and enjoy a sandwich or hot chocolate standing in line. Do not be worried that that you will go hungry while seeing the Eiffel Tower, plenty of options are available.

Update – The Eiffel Tower has welcomed more than 300 MILLION visitors!!! That is correct – 300 MILLION.

The Eiffel Tower

What makes it special: Iconic symbol of Paris from the Exposition Universelle of 1889.
Nearest Métro: Bir-Hakeim – about a half mile walk to the Eiffel Tower
Nearest RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel – a little less than a half mile walk to the Eiffel Tower
Arrondissement: 7th
Official website: https://www.toureiffel.paris/en
Open every day. Hours depend on season
Need detailed regulations? Here is the official pdf.

Arc de Triomphe

by PwS | Feb 21, 2018 | History, Paris

The Arc de Triomphe is a massive memorial arch that epitomizes the word, monument. This landmark is truly monumental in scale and it is an immediately recognizable symbol of Paris. The Arc de Triomphe was built to commemorate the armies who fought in the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars. However, it is also the site for the annual recognition of Armistice Day and Victory in Europe Day, as well as for Bastille Day celebrations. Under the arch, a World War I soldier is buried in the tomb of the unknown soldier. Above him, an eternal flame burns dedicated to French soldiers who died and who were never identified.

Admiring the arch from underneath is a humbling experience. The piers of the Arc de Triomphe are colossal and they are the backdrop for the four towering sculptural groups/reliefs that represent moving stories of the French army during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars. The interior portions list names of important warriors in those armies and names of battles. Altogether, the Arc de Triomphe is an awe-inspiring monument. If you are lucky when you visit, a huge Tricolore (the French flag) will hang from the arch and twist in the wind.

A Breathtaking View of Paris from the Arc de Triomphe Roof

Besides the history and beauty, the Arc de Triomphe has a platform roof offering sweeping views of Paris. Climb the stairs up to the top for one of the best perspectives of the city. It is not so high up that all sense of scale is lost. But, it is kind of on a hill at the end of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées that provides enough altitude to see many other monuments around the city in great context. Plus, you get a bird’s eye view of one of Haussmann’s great achievements – twelve grand avenues radiating from the arch.

In one direction the Eiffel Tower looms above all. Over to the southwest the vast green expanse of the Bois de Boulogne spreads before you. Look to the north and the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur radiates from Montmartre. Due west, the new arch anchors La Défense. Toward the east Notre-Dame de Paris, les Invalides, Tour Montparnasse, the Panthéon, the Seine and more fill the view. Look due east from the Arc de Triomphe all the way down the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, across the Place de la Concorde and its obelisk, through the Tuileries and all the way to the I.M. Pei Pyramid and the Louvre. The distance is a bit over 2 miles if you are up to walking. From there, you can look back and really get a sense of the size of the Arc de Triomphe.

Tunnels provide access under the traffic. You must take the tunnels to visit the arch. DO NOT TRY TO CROSS ON THE ROADWAY.

A Grand Meeting Place

Two of my favorite memories of Paris are at the Arc de Triomphe. Between the avenues that radiate from the arch, little squares or parks are formed. There, among the trees and gravel, the city maintains benches where you can sit and admire the Arc de Triomphe at any time of day or night.

When I was in school in Paris, my friend, Lisa, and I would meet at those benches at night. Lisa was living one Métro stop north of Charles de Gaulle- Étoille, and I was living one Métro stop south. After dinner with the families where we lived, we would take the Métro to meet each other on the benches. Often, we would see a man walking a pair of Borzois around the arch. Every now and then we could spy visitors way high on top of the arch looking out from the top. The night was usually cool and not much traffic flowed around the arch at that time. We would talk and admire the arch while living a dream – studying French in Paris.

Another particularly fond memory is of being on those benches with my parents for lunch, eating baguette sandwiches, drinking Oranginas and taking in the entirety of the scene. The sun was bright, the traffic crazy and we were all happy that we were not driving around like Chevy Chase in European Vacation!

The Arc de Triomphe

What makes it special: One of the grandest monuments in all of the world.
Nearest Métro: Charles de Gaulle-Étoille – takes you right to the Arc de Triomphe
Address: Place Charles de Gaulle
HOURS:
Last admission 45 min before closing time. In case of overcrowding, the ticket office may close.
2 January to 31 March – Open every day 10.00-22.30
1st April to 30 September – Open every day 10.00-23.00
1st October to 31 December – Open every day 10.00-22.30
CLOSED: January 1, May 1, May 8 (morning), July 14, November 11 (morning) and December 25
Official website: http://www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr/en/

Getty Research Institute Announces Trove of Paris Maps – Digitized

by PwS | Feb 5, 2018 | History, Museums

Have you ever wanted to see a map of Paris before Haussmann created the grand avenues? What about the goat paths through the Medieval houses? And, the cobbled streets where the slop buckets were thrown out of the windows onto the passersby below?

Digitized Maps – for Everyone!

The Getty Research Institute announced in its February newsletter that it has digitized a collection of maps from 1754 to 1907. The maps show before and after the Haussmann redesign. These new additions are online and you can check them out right now. They are a complete boon to researchers and the casually interested alike. Visit the Getty site to research and view these maps and lots of other resources that the Getty makes available online.

Read the Getty announcement that follows:

Getty Research Institute News, February 2018

NEW FOR RESEARCHERS

Maps of Paris

A collection of 152 maps of Paris dating from 1754 to 1907 covers the period when Paris was transformed into a modern metropolis under Napoleon Bonaparte and his nephew, Napoleon III. These maps—amassed by collector and dealer André Jammes—feature hand-colored illustrations and vignettes of famous monuments. Changes instigated by Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann during the 1850s and 60s, such as the creation of modern water and sewer systems, the rebuilding of the Île de la Cité, and the expansion from 12 to 20 arrondissements, can be seen prominently across the maps from this time period.

This collection is also digitized and available for free online.

The Getty Research Institute
1200 Getty Center Drive, Suite 1100
Los Angeles, CA 90049-1688
www.getty.edu

Tickets On Sale Now for the Louvre’s Exhibition – Delacroix

by PwS | Feb 4, 2018 | Art, Events, History, Museums

The Louvre is putting on a blockbuster show devoted to Eugène Delacroix. The exhibit will be the first retrospective since 1963. His monumental paintings are what he is most known for. And many of them are hanging in the Louvre now. Delacroix came to epitomize the French Romantic movement with his canvases that inspire. They can evoke strong feelings by viewers. Consequently, the painting shown above was removed from public view. During the politically charged times, it was thought to be too inflammatory . Seems like it was a successful painting!

The exhibition should be quite wonderful for fans of Delacroix. Here is the Louvre’s announcement of the exhibition:

“In partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, in spring 2018, the Musée du Louvre will be hosting an exhibition dedicated to the artistic career of Eugène Delacroix. For the first time since the 1963 exhibition celebrating the 100-year anniversary of his death, this event will pool over 180 artworks by the artist, including a large number of paintings: from the young artist’s big hits at the Salon of 1820 up to his final less known and mysterious religious and landscape compositions.”

The exhibition will showcase the tensions that formed this artist. First of all, he strived for individuality. 16th- and 17th-century Flemish and Venetian artists inspired Delacroix. The installations and information provided will provide insight into his long, rife, and diverse career.

Visitors will have the chance to familiarize themselves with this engaging character. Delacroix was infatuated with fame and devoted to his work. Delacroix was curious, critical, and cultivated. Certainly, he was a virtuoso writer, painter, and illustrator.

Buy your tickets directly from the Louvre. The Louvre is a favorite site!

! Update ! – for those of you traveling to New York City, The Metropolitan Museum of Art is hosting this exhibition from Sptember 17, 2018 – January 6, 2019. Get your tickets directly from The Met here.

Delacroix (1798–1863)

Where: The Louvre
Arrondissement: 1st
Nearest Métro: Two stops serve the Louvre. Exiting at Louvre-Rivoli, you will be at the eastern-most end of the Louvre. Exiting at Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre, you will be closer to the pyramid entrance and very close to the entrance at the Passage de Richelieu (if they will let you in) and the entrance through the Carousel de Louvre – kind of underground shopping area that leads you to the main entrance under the pyramid.
When: March 29, 2018 to July 23, 2018
Admission: €15 (permanent collections + exhibitions)
Opening hours: Every day from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., except Tuesday
Hours: Wednesday – Monday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Night opening until 9:45 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays
CLOSED ON TUESDAYS
Also closed: January 1, May 1 and December 25
Official website: https://www.louvre.fr/en/expositions/delacroix-1798-1863

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