Paris with Scott

Top 10 Things to Do for First Time in Paris

by PwS | Feb 20, 2020 | Trip Planning

I just found out that a friend is leaving for her first visit to Paris – tomorrow! Work is the main reason for her trip, but she will have some free time and she has asked for a top 10 list for things to do for a first timer in Paris.

Hmmmm……

Did you check out pariswithscott.com? Of course, she said. But, there isn’t a top 10 list to choose from for first-time visitors. Okay, she has me on that. I guess I think everyone is going for days and days on end. It is so sad we can’t all go indefinitely!

Get your satchel ready for being out all day and here are the top 10 to pick from.

Before even getting to number one on the list, beware of pickpockets – everywhere. Keep your money, identification, passport in a secure place on your body. Like your front pocket or in a money wallet around your neck. You will be in high tourist areas and thieves will take your money and your passport. If that happens, you will spend the rest of your time in Paris trying to get your credentials to get out of Paris.

First, there are 3 firsts.

Option 1

Take a ride on one of the open top buses. Multiple companies offer several routes, but take the route that goes by the major sights – up the Champs-Elysees, around the Arc de Triomphe, by the Opera, Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Seine, Les Invalides, Place de la Concorde, etc…. Ask at your hotel which company is closest to your location so you can walk to the bus stop. About 2 1/2 hours without getting off.

Even in winter, the open top tour is a must. Bundle up, wrap your neck with a scarf, and go to the top deck. It doesn’t go fast. And, you can really get a feel for the city and this will help you decide what is really interesting to you.

Option 2

If it is really raining, and the forecast is for rain all day, go to the Louvre. (More on the Louvre in a minute.)

Option 3

If you want to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, reserve your time now , while you are reading this. Seriously, check the website now and reserve your ticket, and check for special notices. This is many people’s top thing to do – so it is crowded. Also, maintenance can result in closures of certain areas – including the top – and the website posts current information. (PWS Note: There is no doubt that the Eiffel Tower is incredible! It is breathtaking to walk around it, look at it from all over the city and see it each day while in Paris. I prefer to admire from underneath, from across at Palais de Chaillot, or from the Champs de Mars. The view from the top is so high up that it is far removed from the city of Paris. I think the views are much better from Arc de Triomphe or the Centre Pompidou. Or, visit Galleries Lafayette for the terrace – and you can always get a snack or meal down below. Even Printemps the food halls have amazing views across the rooftops – including a view of the Eiffel Tower.)

2. Sainte-Chapelle

Sainte-Chapelle is a block and a half away from Notre-Dame de Paris, on Boulevard du Palais. Big red vertical signs mark the entrance. After going through security, you wind your way around to the 13th century royal chapel built in 7 years. First, you visit the lower chapel that is dark and dim with gilded Gothic arches. Then, you walk up a narrow stone staircase and enter the soaring upper chapel with monumental walls of stained glass. This is where the kings of France worshipped for a time. And… it is majestic.

Plan to spend at least an hour at Sainte-Chapelle.

Notre-Dame de Paris would take this spot on any top 10, but the inside is closed. It is unfortunate, but you still must visit Notre-Dame de Paris before or after Sainte-Chapelle. Walk over to Île Saint-Louis to view the flying buttresses and marvel at the magnificent Gothic masterpiece.

3. The Louvre

The most extensive art museum in the world is a must visit. From the glass pyramid by I.M. Pei to the ancient foundations, the building is a work of art in itself. And, the ability for the French to move people into the most visited museum in the world is inspiring, even if it may be a little frustrating. Get yourself up early and be there when the Louvre opens, or go when it is open late to have the easiest access. Or, just be prepared to be in a mob trying to get in. It can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. Go with a plan. And one of the best plans is to take the self-guided tour of masterpieces. You will travel through the building seeing the best of the best in the former palace of the monarchs of France.

Plus, there are places to have coffee, a snack, a baguette sandwich, and multiple bookstores with excellent souvenirs, including vast numbers of postcards!

Combine visiting the Louvre with seeing the sublime beauty of the Palais Royal (built in the 1630s) and taking a stroll through the gardens. Break for some coffee or a Badoit before or after at one of the cafés between the Louvre and Palais Royal. You will see them around the Avenue de l’Opéra. Then walk back out to the Rue de Rivoli and into the Jardin des Tuileries (created in 1564) and up to Place de la Concorde. During the French Revolution, a guillotine was on this square.

About 3 hours not including time at a café.

4. Crepe From a Crepe Stand

Choose savory or sweet, maybe the one right outside the Tuileries Garden on the Place de la Concorde? Or, at night near the Pont Neuf watching the boats motor past? This may rank as number 1 in the top 10 experiences.

5. Baguette Sandwich

Choose the traditional – jambon gruyere – ham, swiss cheese and butter on a baguette. Don’t go for the new ones with lettuce, tomato, mozzarella and who knows what else. You can find them everywhere, even at convenience stores, but walk into a boulangerie for some of the best. A real boulangerie makes its own bread on the premises from yeast, flour, water and salt, with no preservatives. Grab a croissant while you are at it. You will want it as a snack later or a post baguette dessert!

6. Place des Vosges

The red brick and stone buildings of the Place des Vosges were built by Henri IV in the early 1600s. Walking under the archways and into the garden really give a feel for a microcosm within Paris. Beautiful buildings, perfect scale, relaxed atmosphere, planned gardens that are meticulously maintained…a sensory delight.

To get to Place des Vosges look for Rue de Birague off the Rue de Rivoli. See the July Column at Place de la Bastille before. Plus, a Monoprix is across the street from Rue de Birague. Duck in for water, reasonably priced souvenirs, crackers and snacks.

From the Place des Vosges, walk a few blocks over to Rue des Rosiers in the Jewish Quarter for delicious falafel at Florence Kahn or L’As du Fallafel. Continue on to the Hôtel de Ville and take a photo like Doisneau.

7. Centre Pompidou

The iconic marvel of 1970s is a definite top 10 to visit with its different colors for different circulations: blue for air, green for water, yellow for electricity and red for people. Centre Pompidou is about 6 blocks from Notre-Dame de Paris and about 3 1/2 blocks from Hôtel de Ville. Go to the top for some of the best views of Paris. Next, go over to Église Saint-Eustache.

Allow 3.5 hours from Place de la Bastille, brief shopping at Monoprix, visiting Place des Vosges, stopping to eat, visiting Centre Pompidou and walking to Église Saint-Eustache. This is without seeing an exhibition Centre Pompidou,

8. Time in a Café

Sit across the Seine from Notre-Dame de Paris, or visit Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots, or whatever café may be near your hotel. Order even the least expensive coffee or lemonade and you will buy yourself time to soak up the atmosphere, enjoy the view, get comfortable in your surroundings, or just rest for a bit. If you have a full day, visit a café after dinner. In the morning, any open café is a great place to stand at the bar for a quick coffee and croissant for breakfast. Make this top 10 one of your most repeated.

Time estimate – up to you.

9. Montmartre

Yes, Virginia, there is a vineyard in Paris up on Montmartre.

Have you seen Moulin Rouge, the movie? Montmartre is where it all took place. Satine’s elephant sat high above Paris with views of the entire city. And, that is what you will have on the steps of the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur. Go a few blocks over and you will walk in Toulouse-Lautrec’s footsteps. As well as many other famous and infamous personages of Paris. Unlike the days from long ago, at the square you will be surrounded by caricature artists, plus accordion music, lots of berets, and restaurants where you should probably not eat. Keep walking and you can find a vineyard! Go to Montmartre for the view, the exterior of Basilica of Sacré-Cœur and the square.

It is a steep walk up or take the funiculaire. At the top, about 1.5 hours.

10. Arc de Triomphe

At the top of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, this National Monument is worth a visit and the climb up the stairs to the top. Paris is laid out before you in all directions. I think the views from l’Arc de Triomphe are the best of all views. And, now you can book your time and ticket in advance without waiting in line.

About an hour.

11. Versailles

If you have seen as much of Paris as you want, and you have half a day to dedicate to one destination, go on a tour of Versailles. Multiple tour operators have easy-to-get-to locations, or will even collect you from your hotel. There are not enough superlatives to describe the palace and the gardens. This is where my mother said, “No wonder they had a revolution.” I know it is beyond the top 10, but the first ones were truly in Paris.

At least 1/2 day.

REMEMBER

Keep your wallet/passport/identification safe – at all times.
Places on the map are farther away than they look. Spend money wisely on Métro passes and/or taxis. If you are short on time, it may be worth a cab ride or taking the Métro to speed you to your destination.

Do you have your own list of the top 10 things to do in Paris? I would love to hear from you. Send them to me!

Cultural Highlights of Fall and Winter 2019 in Paris

by PwS | Sep 25, 2018 | Art, Events, Museums

Here Are Some Cultural Highlights Coming to Paris Soon

The upcoming fall and winter Parisian cultural season is the prime time for visitors who love visual and performing arts. Paris is one of the cultural capitals of the world and each year it puts on a show for locals and visitors. There is no need to understand French to enjoy paintings and listen to music. However, drama can be a little daunting. But, if you love to attend plays, by all means, enjoy the scenery and the acting.

Along with the art being exhibited and performed, the buildings housing these shows and performances are worth exploring and admiring in their own right. The cultural opportunities in Paris are pretty much endless. But, here are a few highlights from the upcoming fall and winter Parisian cultural season.

Visual Arts

National Picasso Museum Paris (Musée National Picasso-Paris)

Picasso Masterpieces! is a new exhibit in the newly re-opened museum. Out of his extraordinarily prolific career, the museum investigates what it means to be a masterpiece. Some of the pieces are exhibited for the first time in Paris.

Musée d’Orsay

Picasso. Blue and Rose. In collaboration with the Picasso Museum, the Musée d’Orsay is exhibiting paintings, sculptures and drawings in a show of his work from 1900-1906. The works are arranged showing the artist’s development into the blue and rose periods. Extraordinary works from when Pablo Picasso was very young.

Orsay through the Eyes of Julian Schnabel. For its first show of contemporary art, the Musée d’Orsay chose Julian Schnabel to interpret the collection. The filmmaker and painter includes works from the museum’s collection and also presents some of his own paintings.

Grand Palais

Photo by Ron Clausen

Magnificent Venice!, Miró and Michael Jackson. The Grand Palais is staging exhibitions this fall and winter season that should entice people with a variety of tastes. Magnificent Venice! explores Europe and the arts in the 18th century. While, Miró displays nearly 150 works by the surrealist Spanish master, Joan Miró. Also, an exhibition on Michael Jackson subtitled, “On the Wall”. It explores the cultural impact of Michael Jackson. Who is in for some MJ?

Paris Photo. The annual international photography exhibition in the great hall of the Grand Palais. Most noteworthy works from well-known masters as well as up and coming stars are shown by galleries from all over the world. Get ready to be overwhelmed by photographs and see the magnificent glass ceiling.

Petit Palais

The City of Paris’ fine art museum has a few exhibitions that may attract a more focused group of admirers. Jean Jacques Lequeu (1757-1826) Builder of Fantasy, shows the complete collection of several hundred drawings by the artist, for the first time. Another show features the work of the Belgian artist, Fernad Khnopff (1858-1921) The Master of Enigma. Surprises await those who venture into the Petit Palais.

Louvre Museum

Under the pyramid in the Louvre, a contemporary art installation sure to blow you away. Kohei Nawa’s Throne, is a monumental gilded work combing modern technology and ancient symbols.

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

Along with its permanent collection, visit this museum for the amazing building and shows on Zao Wou-Ki and Ron Amir. The huge rooms are just the place for these artists who produce over-size work. Zao Wou-Ki paints and draws huge images. And, this collection of Amir’s large format color photos provide insight into the living conditions of refugees from Sudan and Eritrea.

Performing Arts

Opéra National de Paris

Mid-September begins the opera season in Paris. Productions are being staged at the Opéra Basitlle and the Palais Garnier that include repertory works of Tristan und Isolde, La Traviata, and l’Elisir d’Amore. And, new productions this fall and winter include Les Huguenots, Bérénice, Il Primo Omicidio and Les Troyens. And, on December 30 and 31st, the Paris Opera will begin a celebration of its 350th year. Yes, 350th! The Paris Opera was begun by Louis XIV in 1669.

Théâtre des Champs-Élysées

Verdi’s La Traviata is the main opera production this fall. And, the beautiful theater which opened in with the performance of Nijinsky’s Rite of Spring. Imagine being there then! Chamber Orchestra of Paris also performs in this space with a variety of scheduled appearances. The theater also schedules vocal recitals, concert productions of operas, classic and contemporary dance and even Sunday Morning concerts!

Orchestre de Paris

The Paris Orchestra (Orchestra de Paris) performs symphonic works in its new home, the organic and innovative Philharmonie de Paris in the Parc de la Villette. Works by Beethoven, Britten, Berlioz and the rest of the alphabet of composers of grand music.

Palais Opera Ballet

Over at the Palais Garnier, dance lovers can visit the fabled opera house which is a venue for the Paris Opera Ballet. See Decadance, Tribute to Jerome Robbins, Cinderella and even an interesting succession of Goecke/Lidberg/Cherkaoui. This last is a work that displays dance and theater by three very different choreographers. No French language skills needed to enjoy the ballet.

Picasso Circus

Coinciding with Picasso. Blue and Rose and Picasso Masterpiece!, the Théâtre du Châtelet will present Picasso Circus in the Musée d’Orsay for people to learn about circus acts, meet performers and see demonstrations.

Théâtre de la Ville

Sambasô, Divine Dance is a riveting “ritual dance … performed by three generations of the Nomura family of actors who glorify and revolutionize the “kyôgen” tradition.” Stage design by the renown photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto. The Théâtre de la Ville is closed for renovations, but its events are being staged around town, and this one is in the Espace Cardin.

Comédie-Française

This acting troupe was formed by Louis XIV in 1680. They perform in several venues, but the luxe Salle Richelieu theater in the Palais Royal complex provides regal seating to watch dramatic performances. Tune your ear to French while watching the dramas of The Mistress of the Inn by Carlo Goldoni, Lucrezia Borgia by Victor Hugo, or Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night.

Others Worth Investigating

Of course – organ concerts in magnificent churches!

And, for even more performing art events, take a look at these:

Odéon Théâtre de l’Europe

Théâtre National de Chaillot which is the National Theater of Dance

Palais Royal Gardens (Jardin du Palais-Royal)

by PwS | Mar 14, 2018 | Gardens

All of the excitement of the Louvre and rue de Rivoli! Seeing the glinting gold statues of the Palais Garnier in the distance from the busy intersection of avenue de l’Opera and rue Saint Honore can be overwhelming. So much beauty. So many people going to and fro. Cars whizzing by, performers performing…. But, just a few paces away, you can duck into one of the most serene places in Paris – the Palais Royal gardens which are surrounded by solemn arcades and stoic buildings.

Cross the Place Collette with its Metro entrance decorated with open work domes made of multi-colored balls – the Comedie Francaise theater will be in front and a cafe or two will be on the right. Go through the arches and enter a paved courtyard with a controversial (what’s new in Paris?) sculpture by Daniel Buren. It was installed in 1986 and is known as ‘les colonnes de Buren.’ This collection of black and white striped octagonal columns of different heights beg for children of all ages to sit on them, to jump over them and to generally enjoy them before crossing an arcade into the gardens.

18th Century Revisited at Palais Royal Gardens

Once inside the magnificent courtyard, admire the buildings around the garden that are the epitome of 18th century style and begin a stroll through the gardens themselves which exemplify subdued elegance. However, this was not always the case. In the 19th century, ladies of the night waited in the arcades to entice those looking for love – or at least a bit of fun, while gambling casinos lured those hoping to beat the house.

Palais-Royal

Today, the arcades house a few shops and a famous restaurant, Le Grand Véfour. It is the first grand restaurant in Paris which opened in 1784. Symmetrical rows of lime trees soothe and beckon visitors to linger and enjoy the shade. In the spring and summer, the middle gardens come alive with lush, nodding rose blossoms, the water fountain sings in the background, pigeons fly and coo, people dot the benches and a quiet calm prevails. In winter the gardens are no less enticing. The leafless trees and the staid surroundings inspire introspection, reflection and allow those who visit a moment to collect their thoughts.

What do you think of the Palais Royal Gardens? One of your favorite spaces?

Palais Royal Gardens

What makes it special: Quiet space near many monuments and places of interest. Great place to enjoy a snack or baguette lunch. Enchanting garden.
Nearest Métro: Palais Royal Musée du Louvre (Lines 1 and 7) or Pyramides (Line 14)
Arrondissement: 1st
Suggested time to visit: During daylight hours
Official website: http://www.domaine-palais-royal.fr/en/