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Paintings in the Louvre Acquired by Louis XIV

Paintings in the Louvre Acquired by Louis XIV

One of the most fascinating parts of stopping at a painting that strikes your sensibility is learning more about it.  The labels next to the works are little blurbs providing basic information.  And generally, it includes how the object made its way into the collection – part of the provenance of the work.

Like monarchs in other realms, French kings were great collectors of art and owned royal castles that could store all of these objects.  The Louvre was one of those castles owned by the sovereign, and we are fortunate that they kept adding to the royal collection over the centuries.

Since Louis XIV is often thought of as the most outsized King of France, here are a few paintings that were directly acquired by the Sun King.  Most of his acquisitions were safely classical French works.  Many religious and classical myths, historical battles, triumphant victories, and battle scenes glorify Louis XIV. And compare Louis XIV to gods.  What else would he expect?

Of course, all of the paintings that belonged to the French crown belonged to Louis XIV when he was King of France from 1643 until 1715.  But these are 7 collected by him, or given to him, while he was king and that are hanging on the walls of the Louvre ready for you to search them out on your next visit.

(The artist’s name is followed by the name of the painting in English and French, the date the work was created, a brief description of how it entered Louis XIV’s collection, and the location where it is on display in the Louvre. All images from louvre.fr.)

1.

Luini, Bernardino.
Salomé Receiving the Head of John the Baptist.  Salomé recevant la tête de saint Jean Baptiste. 1520 – 1530.
Acquired in 1671 from Everhard Jabach.
Denon, Salle 710 – Grande Galerie

To start things off, take a look at this painting of a lovely Salomé turning her head away while John the Baptist’s is held by his hair above the silver plate.  This is one of many paintings Louis XIV bought from Everhard Jabach.  Jabach was an art collector, wheeler, dealer, and director in the French East India Company, which held a monopoly on trade in the Indian and Pacific Oceans.  He had the resources to amass a huge collection of important works from renowned artists.  Some of these he sold to Louis XIV in 1671.

Musée du Louvre. Luini, Bernardino. Salomé recevant la tête de saint Jean Baptiste. 1520 – 1530.

2.

Gellée, Claude, called Le Lorraine.
Seaport at Sunset; Port de mer au soleil couchant.  Painted in 1637 for Pope Urbain VIII.
Given to Louis XIV by André Le Nôtre in 1693.
Richelieu, Salle 827

This beautiful landscape is by a celebrated French painter who creates a classical scene of a port with the warm glow of sunset washing the sea, the ships, the buildings, and the people.  And, notably, this was a gift to Louis XIV by his gardener, André Le Nôtre, the designer of the gardens at Versailles.

Musée du Louvre. Gellée, Claude. Port de mer au soleil couchant. 1637.

3.

Le Brun, Charles.
Alexander the Great Enters Babylon; Entrée d’Alexandre dans Babylone.  1665.
Collected by Louis XIV.
Sully, Salle 914

Could more adoration and comparison be heaped onto Louis XIV?  This is pretty triumphant, for both Louis XIV and a triumph for Charles LeBrun.

Musée du Louvre, Le Brun, Charles. Entrée d’Alexandre dans Babylone. 1665.

4.

van Rijn, Rembrandt Harmenszoon, also called Rembrandt.
Portrait of the Artist at His Easel; Autoportrait au chevalet et à l’appuie-main de peintre. 1660.
Collected by Louis XIV about 1671.
Richelieu, Salle 101

Rembrandt, check.

Musée du Louvre, van Rijn, Rembrandt Harmenszoon, also called Rembrandt. Autoportrait au chevalet et à l’appuie-main de peintre. 1660.

5.

Titien (Tiziano Vecellio, called Tiziano), in English, Titian.
Saint Jerome doing penance; Saint Jérôme pénitent.  XVI century.
Louis XIV bought this painting and others from Pierre-Alexis Ponce de La Feuille in 1671.
Denon, Salle 711

Poor St. Jerome.  He lived in the 300s and early 400s living in a cave outside of Bethlehem after converting to Christianity.  Writing furiously and eating a subsistence diet, he is often portrayed half-clothed.  Here, Titien shows a penitent St. Jerome on bended knee before a crucifix.  Notice his friend the lion in the shadows, faithfully staying with the one who had removed a thorn from his paw and nursed him back to health.

Musée du Louvre. Titien. Saint Jérôme pénitent. XVI century.

6.

Santi, Raffaello, called Raphaël.
St. George Fighting the Dragon; Saint Georges luttant avec le dragon.  1503 – 1505.
Acquired by Louis XIV from the heirs of Cardinal Mazarin in 1665.
Denon, Salle 710

This jewel is only 11.5” x 10”.  Even though it is in a large gilded frame, it is easy to miss.  The Grand Gallery can be overwhelming with masterworks whizzing by.  Take some time to find the ones you like.  Notice that Cardinal Mazarin had a good eye when it came to collecting masterpieces.

Musée du Louvre. Santi, Raffaello, dit RaphaëlItalie. Saint Georges luttant avec le dragon. 1503 – 1505.

7.

Vouet, Simon, Attributed to.
Christ on the Column;  Le Christ à la colonne.  Around 1645.
Entered the collection of Louis XIV before 1706.
Richelieu, Salle 831

This may be one of the most muscular depictions of Jesus ever created.  He and his tormentors are definitely gym rats in this painting.

Musée du Louvre. Vouet, Simon. Le Christ à la colonne. Around 1645.

BONUS – because it is a must to include:

Rigaud, Hyacinthe also called, Rigau y Ros.
Louis XIV (1638-1715); Louis XIV (1638-1715).  1701.
Collected by Louis XIV
Held by the Louvre, but on view at Versailles.

Louis XIV in all his glory.  Of course, he collected it.

Musée du Louvre. Rigaud, Hyacinthe. Louis XIV (1638-1715). 1701.

There are so many paintings that were acquired by royalty.  Find your favorites on the walls of the Louvre, then check the label.  You may be surprised who shares your taste!

Musée du Louvre
Paris
For hours and information to plan your visit, go to https://www.louvre.fr/en/visit#hours-admission.
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Top 10 Things to Do for First Time in Paris

Top 10 Things to Do for First Time in Paris

I just found out that a friend is leaving for her first visit to Paris – tomorrow!  Work is the main reason for her trip, but she will have some free time and she has asked for a top 10 list for things to do for a first timer in Paris.

Hmmmm……

Did you check out pariswithscott.com?  Of course, she said.  But, there isn’t a top 10 list to choose from for first-time visitors.  Okay, she has me on that.  I guess I think everyone is going for days and days on end.  It is so sad we can’t all go indefinitely!

Get your satchel ready for being out all day and here are the top 10 to pick from.

Before even getting to number one on the list, beware of pickpockets – everywhere.  Keep your money, identification, passport in a secure place on your body.  Like your front pocket or in a money wallet around your neck.  You will be in high tourist areas and thieves will take your money and your passport.  If that happens, you will spend the rest of your time in Paris trying to get your credentials to get out of Paris.

First, there are 3 firsts.

place de la concorde eiffel tower

Option 1

Take a ride on one of the open top buses.  Multiple companies offer several routes, but take the route that goes by the major sights – up the Champs-Elysees, around the Arc de Triomphe, by the Opera, Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Seine, Les Invalides, Place de la Concorde, etc….  Ask at your hotel which company is closest to your location so you can walk to the bus stop.  About 2 1/2 hours without getting off.

Even in winter, the open top tour is a must.  Bundle up, wrap your neck with a scarf, and go to the top deck.  It doesn’t go fast.  And, you can really get a feel for the city and this will help you decide what is really interesting to you.

Option 2

If it is really raining, and the forecast is for rain all day, go to the Louvre.  (More on the Louvre in a minute.)

Option 3

If you want to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, reserve your time now , while you are reading this.  Seriously, check the website now and reserve your ticket, and check for special notices.  This is many people’s top thing to do – so it is crowded.  Also, maintenance can result in closures of certain areas – including the top – and the website posts current information.  (PWS Note:  There is no doubt that the Eiffel Tower is incredible!  It is breathtaking to walk around it, look at it from all over the city and see it each day while in Paris.  I prefer to admire from underneath, from across at Palais de Chaillot, or from the Champs de Mars.  The view from the top is so high up that it is far removed from the city of Paris.  I think the views are much better from Arc de Triomphe or the Centre Pompidou.  Or, visit Galleries Lafayette for the terrace – and you can always get a snack or meal down below.  Even Printemps the food halls have amazing views across the rooftops – including a view of the Eiffel Tower.)

2.  Sainte-Chapelle

sainte-chapelle lower chapel top 10

Sainte-Chapelle is a block and a half away from Notre-Dame de Paris, on Boulevard du Palais.  Big red vertical signs mark the entrance.  After going through security, you wind your way around to the 13th century royal chapel built in 7 years.  First, you visit the lower chapel that is dark and dim with gilded Gothic arches.  Then, you walk up a narrow stone staircase and enter the soaring upper chapel with monumental walls of stained glass.  This is where the kings of France worshipped for a time.  And… it is majestic.

Plan to spend at least an hour at Sainte-Chapelle.

Notre-Dame de Paris would take this spot on any top 10, but the inside is closed.  It is unfortunate, but you still must visit Notre-Dame de Paris before or after Sainte-Chapelle.  Walk over to Île Saint-Louis to view the flying buttresses and marvel at the magnificent Gothic masterpiece.

3.  The Louvre

louvre top 10

The most extensive art museum in the world is a must visit.  From the glass pyramid by I.M. Pei to the ancient foundations, the building is a work of art in itself.  And, the ability for the French to move people into the most visited museum in the world is inspiring, even if it may be a little frustrating.  Get yourself up early and be there when the Louvre opens, or go when it is open late to have the easiest access.  Or, just be prepared to be in a mob trying to get in.  It can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be.  Go with a plan.  And one of the best plans is to take the self-guided tour of masterpieces.  You will travel through the building seeing the best of the best in the former palace of the monarchs of France.

Plus, there are places to have coffee, a snack, a baguette sandwich, and multiple bookstores with excellent souvenirs, including vast numbers of postcards!

Combine visiting the Louvre with seeing the sublime beauty of the Palais Royal (built in the 1630s) and taking a stroll through the gardens.  Break for some coffee or a Badoit before or after at one of the cafés between the Louvre and Palais Royal.  You will see them around the Avenue de l’Opéra.  Then walk back out to the Rue de Rivoli and into the Jardin des Tuileries (created in 1564) and up to Place de la Concorde.  During the French Revolution, a guillotine was on this square.

About 3 hours not including time at a café.

4.  Crepe From a Crepe Stand

crepe stand top 10

Choose savory or sweet, maybe the one right outside the Tuileries Garden on the Place de la Concorde?  Or, at night near the Pont Neuf watching the boats motor past?  This may rank as number 1 in the top 10 experiences.

5.  Baguette Sandwich

baguette sandwich top 10

Choose the traditional – jambon gruyere – ham, swiss cheese and butter on a baguette.  Don’t go for the new ones with lettuce, tomato, mozzarella and who knows what else.  You can find them everywhere, even at convenience stores, but walk into a boulangerie for some of the best.  A real boulangerie makes its own bread on the premises from yeast, flour, water and salt, with no preservatives.  Grab a croissant while you are at it.  You will want it as a snack later or a post baguette dessert!

6.  Place des Vosges

place des vosges top 10

The red brick and stone buildings of the Place des Vosges were built by Henri IV in the early 1600s.  Walking under the archways and into the garden really give a feel for a microcosm within Paris.  Beautiful buildings, perfect scale, relaxed atmosphere, planned gardens that are meticulously maintained…a sensory delight.

To get to Place des Vosges look for Rue de Birague off the Rue de Rivoli.  See the July Column at Place de la Bastille before.  Plus, a Monoprix is across the street from Rue de Birague.  Duck in for water, reasonably priced souvenirs, crackers and snacks.

From the Place des Vosges, walk a few blocks over to Rue des Rosiers in the Jewish Quarter for delicious falafel at Florence Kahn or L’As du Fallafel.  Continue on to the Hôtel de Ville and take a photo like Doisneau.

7.  Centre Pompidou

pompidou-top-10

The iconic marvel of 1970s is a definite top 10 to visit with its different colors for different circulations:  blue for air, green for water, yellow for electricity and red for people.  Centre Pompidou is about 6 blocks from Notre-Dame de Paris and about 3 1/2 blocks from Hôtel de Ville.  Go to the top for some of the best views of Paris.  Next, go over to Église Saint-Eustache.

Allow 3.5 hours from Place de la Bastille, brief shopping at Monoprix, visiting Place des Vosges, stopping to eat, visiting Centre Pompidou and walking to Église Saint-Eustache.  This is without seeing an exhibition Centre Pompidou,

8.  Time in a Café

spend time at a cafe top 10

Sit across the Seine from Notre-Dame de Paris, or visit Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots, or whatever café may be near your hotel.  Order even the least expensive coffee or lemonade and you will buy yourself time to soak up the atmosphere, enjoy the view, get comfortable in your surroundings, or just rest for a bit.  If you have a full day, visit a café after dinner.  In the morning, any open café is a great place to stand at the bar for a quick coffee and croissant for breakfast.  Make this top 10 one of your most repeated.

Time estimate – up to you.

9.  Montmartre

montmartre-top-10

Yes, Virginia, there is a vineyard in Paris up on Montmartre.

Have you seen Moulin Rouge, the movie?  Montmartre is where it all took place.  Satine’s elephant sat high above Paris with views of the entire city.  And, that is what you will have on the steps of the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur.  Go a few blocks over and you will walk in Toulouse-Lautrec’s footsteps.  As well as many other famous and infamous personages of Paris.  Unlike the days from long ago, at the square you will be surrounded by caricature artists, plus accordion music, lots of berets, and restaurants where you should probably not eat.  Keep walking and you can find a vineyard!  Go to Montmartre for the view, the exterior of Basilica of Sacré-Cœur and the square.

It is a steep walk up or take the funiculaire.  At the top, about 1.5 hours.

10.  Arc de Triomphe

arc de triomphe top 10

At the top of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, this National Monument is worth a visit and the climb up the stairs to the top.  Paris is laid out before you in all directions.  I think the views from l’Arc de Triomphe are the best of all views.  And, now you can book your time and ticket in advance without waiting in line.

About an hour.

11.  Versailles

versailles top 10

If you have seen as much of Paris as you want, and you have half a day to dedicate to one destination, go on a tour of Versailles.  Multiple tour operators have easy-to-get-to locations, or will even collect you from your hotel.  There are not enough superlatives to describe the palace and the gardens.  This is where my mother said, “No wonder they had a revolution.”  I know it is beyond the top 10, but the first ones were truly in Paris.

At least 1/2 day.

REMEMBER

Keep your wallet/passport/identification safe – at all times.
Places on the map are farther away than they look.  Spend money wisely on Métro passes and/or taxis.  If you are short on time, it may be worth a cab ride or taking the Métro to speed you to your destination.

Do you have your own list of the top 10 things to do in Paris?  I would love to hear from you.  Send them to me!

New Paris Art Exhibits & Musical Highlights 2019/2020

New Paris Art Exhibits & Musical Highlights 2019/2020

Now that La Rentrée is complete, it is time to start trip planning in the winter and into 2020.  Here are a few highlights that begin with visual arts and exhibits.

Théâtre du Châtelet

The Théâtre du Châtelet will reopen in September after a 30-month renovation.  A sumptuous theater, but at the same time with an intimate audience space.  One tremendous idea of the co-directors is to introduce an idea that people who purchase tickets for a show buy extra tickets for those who cannot afford them.  What a refreshing idea!  Along with avant-garde theater, the Théâtre du Châtelet will perform An American in Paris from November 28, 2019 until January 1, 2020.

Léonard da Vinci Exhibit

That is correct.  The French do not call him Leonardo, rather Léonard.  Buy your tickets now for the sensational celebration of Léonard da Vinci at the Louvre.  From October 24, 2019 until February 24, 2020.  You can get priority access by becoming a Friend of the Louvre.  Add this to your trip planning as the main event.  Then, schedule other things around this once in many, many lifetimes opportunity.  I am trying to make it to see this!

Leonardo, Virgin of the Rocks.

Skip Mona – this is on the wall with no one looking at it!!!!  Next to other masterpieces by him – bonus – and people walk by with no clue.

A change at the Louvre you definitely need to know.  If you have a museum pass, you must now reserve a time to enter the Louvre.  Best advice on visiting – go when it opens or go on a Wednesday or Friday late afternoon or evening.  The Louvre is open until 9:45pm on those two days.  (You don’t want me to gush about how enchanting it is to visit the Louvre in the nighttime.)  Remember, Tuesdays, the Louvre is closed.  You can always buy timed entry tickets online as well.

Grand Palais Exhibits

Three extraordinary events are coming to the Grand Palais!

El Greco

First, we know him as El Greco, but the name of the exhibit is GRECO from October 16, 2019 – February 10, 2020. This is the FIRST retrospective in France dedicated to El Greco!!! What a bonus for Paris! From the Grand Palais’ site: “Attracted by the incredible promise of the El Escorial site, the artist brought Titian’s color, Tintoretto’s audacity, and Michelangelo’s heroic style. This eloquent combination, original yet consistent with his own way, gave El Greco (who died four years after Caravaggio) a unique place in the history of painting, as the last grandmaster of the Renaissance and the first great painter of the Golden Age.”

El Greco

Toulouse-Lautrec

Second, on October 9, 2019, the exhibition TOULOUSE-LAUTREC, Resolutely Modern opens. It is another retrospective, and the last one was in 1992. It runs until January 27, 2020. Rather than focusing on what is called, the “Montmartre Culture,” this exhibition explores his art, on its own. And, in the Grand Palais’ site, it states, “By giving too much weight to the context and folklore of the Moulin-Rouge, we have lost sight of the aesthetic, poetic ambition which Lautrec invested in what he learned, in turn, from Princeteau, Bonnat, and Cormon.” It should be fascinating.

Toulouse-Lautrec

Paris Photo

Third, and not the least by far, is Paris Photo. From November 7-10, 2019, you can see amazing art under the glass ceiling of the Grand Palais. “Paris Photo is the largest international art fair dedicated to the photographic medium and is held each November at the historic Grand Palais in Paris. Since 1997, the Fair’s mission is to promote and nurture photographic creation and the galleries, publishers, and artists at its source. Paris Photo brings together up to 200 exhibitors from across the world, offering collectors and enthusiasts the most diverse and qualitative presentation of photography-driven projects today. Leading galleries showcase historical and contemporary artworks from modern masters to young talents.” From https://www.parisphoto.com/en/fair/About/.

That is three events in one space to consider in your trip planning.

Jeu de Paume

Photographs by Peter Hujar are coming soon to the Jeu de Paume in an exhibition, Peter Hujar Speed of Life. In keeping with its goal of promoting mechanical and electronic imagery of the 20th and 21st centuries, it stays on the cutting edge. From October 15, 2019, until January 19, 2020, Hujar’s work will entice visitors into the beautiful building where court games were once played. The press for this exhibit describes the artist as, “In his loft studio in the East Village, Hujar focused on those who followed their creative instincts and shunned mainstream success. He made, in his words, “uncomplicated, direct photographs of complicated and difficult subjects,” immortalizing moments, individuals, and subcultures passing at the speed of life.” From the Jeu de Paume’s website. Also on view late 2019 and early 2020 are exhibits of work by Daisuke Kosugi and Zineb Sedira.

Palais de Tokyo

October 14 – RÜFÜS DU SOL.  In the Yoyo at Palais de Tokyo.  An amazing venue for this Australian group to perform!!!

Also, from October 16, 2019, until January 5, 2010, Futur, ancien, fugitif is an exhibition of contemporary works from artists of varying ages, living throughout France and other countries. None of the artist’s work is in the same medium or in the same method. All of the invited artists will answer and explore similar existential questions through their works. Like many of the other exhibitions at the Palais de Tokyo, this one sounds like it will be interesting and mind-expanding.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature

Sorry, but this gem will be closed until the fall or winter of 2020 for renovation and enlargement.  Obviously, the word has gotten out that this place is a must see – the number of visitors doubled between 2016 and 2018.  Put it in your trip planning at some point.

Musée de Luxembourg

You can see more than just the garden over at Luxembourg Palace. Just next door to the French Senate complex, the small Musée du Luxembourg museum often hosts fascinating exhibitions. And, it is true for The Golden Age of the English Painting, from Reynolds to Turner.

From September 11, 2019 to February 16, 2020, if you happen to be in Paris and want to see a dose of English painting in Paris. This is the ticket for you.

Musée Jacquemart-André

Not into English painting? What about paintings from the Italian Renaissance? If so, make trip planning a priority to see, The Alana CollectionMasterpieces of Italian Painting. In this unprecedented loan, seventy-five masterpieces from Italian masters will hang in the sumptuous rooms of the Musée Jacquemart-André. From September 13, 2019, until January 20, 2020, admire works by Lorenzo Monaco, Fra Angelico, Uccello, Lippi, Bellini, Carpaccio, Tintoretto, Veronese, Bronzino, and Gentileschi.

Musée Maillol

One hundred works from ‘Naïve’ artists (“Called ‘modern primitives’ by one of their ardent supporters”) soon will grace the Musee Maillol in the exhibition entitled, From the Douanier Rousseau to Séraphine, The Great Naïve Masters. From September 11, 2019, to January 19, 2020, you can be mesmerized by the seemingly simplistic art by André Bauchant, Camille Bombois, Ferdinand Desnos, Jean Ève, René Rimbert, Dominique Peyronnet, and Louis Vivin. From the museum’s site: “By combining a historical, analytical, and perceptive approach to the works and their presentation in the exhibition, the Musée Maillol will unveil the subversive dimension of Naïve art and will present these Naïve, primitive, modern, or anti-modern artists as great artists who ran counter to the avant-garde artists.”

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Charlotte Perriand: Inventing a New World will be on view from October 2, 2019, to February 24, 2020. The website for the Fondation describes the exhibit, “To mark the twentieth anniversary of the passing of Charlotte Perriand (1903-1999), the Fondation pays tribute to her as an architect and visionary creator through an exhibition of her work exploring the links between art, architecture and design.” Charlotte Perriand worked with both Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret in her youth. She designed interiors for the art of living, “L’Art de Vivre,” with the idea that everything working in conjunction, beautifully, creates a better place for all of us.

charlotte perriand

Furniture and interior by Charlotte Perriand on exhibit. Jacques.delacroix, Meubles Charlotte Perriand, CC BY-SA 3.0

And, for an abbreviated round up of highlights from the performing arts….  There is just soooo much happening in Paris…..

Opéra National de Paris

Over at the Opéra National de Paris, at both venues – Palais Garnier and the Opéra Bastille – of course, there are some of the most in-demand events in the world. Well-known operas from Madam Butterfly to Don Carlo, but also with lesser-knowns, like Les Indes Galantes and Boris Godunov. Plus newer works like Lear. And, the opera is performing a few works from Wagner’s Ring Cycle.

On the ballet and dance front, the troupe is performing a Balanchine tribute from February through April 2020, Giselle in January and February of that year. But, from January 18-29, the ballet will perform Debussy and Ravel together for a cosmic performance. Described on the website as, “Guided by her perpetual fascination for the relationship between pure movement and music, Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker takes up Prélude à l’après‑midi d’un faune with the dancers of the Rosas Company. The performance continues with L’Enfant et les sortilèges, a tale written by Colette and finely orchestrated by Ravel. In Richard Jones and Antony McDonald’s production, the singers of the Academy suffuse this work with the freshness of youth.”

As well as many concerts and events. And lots of “Young Audience” events that are great for all ages. Each seems like it is a can’t miss engagement.

Philharmonie de Paris

Okay, the Philharmonie de Paris has about 500 concerts each year – of every kind of music. Plus, it has a museum and mounts exhibitions. A LOT is happening. Some interesting and fun events are the movies where the orchestra plays the music. Yes, live music at a movie. Take a look at the calendar once you have your dates and make a plan to visit this incredible venue. The building alone is worth a visit, but add in talented musicians and singers and performers and you have a guaranteed exciting time.

philharmonie de paris

Inside the Philharmonie de Paris. Photo by BastienM, Paris-Philharmonie1, CC BY-SA 4.0

Even if you lived in Paris, I don’t know how you could see all of these incredible opportunities to learn and experience more!